Concept_’s extensive mouse guide
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Inland Navigator (07233) Mouse
from $5.10 8 stores
No reviews yet.
Be the first!
Key Features- Interface: USB (Mouse)
- Motion Device Type: Optical
- Input Interface Type: Mouse
- Platform: PC
- Connectivity: Cable
Haha, I see why it's bad.
http://www1.shopping.com/xPO-Inland-Inland-Navigator-USB-PS-2-Optical-Mouse -
MwakMunzta wrote: »Inland Navigator (07233) Mouse
from $5.10 8 stores
No reviews yet.
Be the first!
Key Features- Interface: USB (Mouse)
- Motion Device Type: Optical
- Input Interface Type: Mouse
- Platform: PC
- Connectivity: Cable
Haha, I see why it's bad.
http://www1.shopping.com/xPO-Inland-Inland-Navigator-USB-PS-2-Optical-Mouse
lol
so have i convinced you to upgrade? -
MwakMunzta wrote: »Nahh, lol , imma go to church and steal some mice ^_^
or i could buy it.
so recommendations?
CHEAP:
WMO 1.1/ you can probalby steal one from any public installement: library, pool, any place with computers it's extremely popular and cheap.
OTHER:
Any gaming grade optical mouse would do
Some good high quality laser mice would do the trick 2
GL -
Using a deathadder 3g right now but it totally jams into place if I move too fast at 125hz-250hz and even at 500hz. So I'm a sad cat that doesn't know what mouse to use. Add the recent mouse+keyboard freezing issue and my RAGE/death ratio has gone up considerably!
Dude! I had the exact same problem with my DA 3.5; when i would move the mouse super quick, like over 1.5m/s, my cursor would just stop kid way and like stay there on the X axis! I was using 1800 dpi and switched to 400, and voila, problem solved.
Try using different dpi settings and changing software sensitivity. -
Mouse hertz, to put it simply, is basically the time your computer takes to recognize a signal sent from your mouse. So if you have it set to 125 Hz, it’ll be 8ms, 500 Hz: 2ms, 1000 Hz: 1ms. Most “gaming” mice can reach 500 Hz default if not 1000. You’ll generally want it set to a higher number such as 500 or 1000, but some people, like me, find 1000 Hz too responsive. Play with your mouse settings and find what you like. If you’re using an older mouse like a Microsoft IME 3.0, you’ll have to overclock your USB. Search it up on Google if you don’t know how.
Just want to let you know when I was tooling on you earlier I run 100hz on a PS/2 port. You don't need anything more than that. -
So..does anyone actually recommend the Microsoft 1.1A? My mouse broke, and that's the only thing on the list I can buy on a budget ($15).
yea that's def the way to go. It's a great mouse for the price just has that old "mouse look" if you can get over that.:P -
I have to agree. I love my deathadder to death.
Perhaps you could consider making a thread as extensively about mouse pads?
Im currently using the Razer Kabuto pad cause i originally bought the Orochi but it was so small i couldnt use it. I returned it for the deathadder and the pad already has noticable wear after a couple months.
I was thinking about the 9HD from Steelseries. Any thoughts? -
lol @ thread.
I have a 5$ mouse that I got with my computer...Yet I can pretty much play as good as anyone even if they use those mice. Does it mean I would totally **** them if I had a 150$ mouse? It's kind of ridiculous to spend so much money for that. Buy another graphic card instead. herp derp.
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